The milky creatures pulsed slowly, slower than my heartbeat, which dropped as I watched. They were the first wild jellyfish I had seen in years of chasing them. Juxtaposed with the dome, the endless stream of jellyfish seemed to square off nature’s power against our own. In the murky green water, I watched thousands – maybe hundreds of thousands – of pale pink discs parade by, a flood of jellyfish. The dome sits along the side of one of six tidal streams that flow through Hiroshima. This is the Atomic Bomb Dome, located at the epicentre of 1945’s nuclear destruction of the city by the US. At its heart there is a single structure, in ruins, capped by a skeleton of curved iron. Hiroshima’s city centre is a garden of modern architecture interspersed with swathes of lovely green parks. Jellyfish are growing in numbers around the world, but they are confounding the scientists who are trying to study them.
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